Sunday, August 22, 2004

The Gods must be sleeping

There are many Gods in this part of the world. Two weeks ago, I mentioned the computer God, well this week I shall briefly mention the Gods of Bangkok. These Gods, who oversee the City of Angels, are all powerful. When they conspire against you, there is no worse place on earth to be. Their means of making a person’s life a living hell know no bounds: floods, paralysing traffic jams, sizzling heatwaves, mind-numbing technomusic, cockroaches, rats, and a dead body or two thrown in for good measure. When the Gods are sleeping, however, Bangkok becomes almost surviveable. Today has thus far been just such a day.

This morning I awoke at 3 am to the sound of heavy rainfall. To my ears, falling rain sounds just as beautiful and melodic as Pachebel’s Canon in D. I fell back asleep and awoke at 5 am to the sound of crickets, the chirping of birds, and an occasional rooster or two. I started the day with my mind at ease. I quickly got out of bed and jumped on a bus, then the Skytrain (a true sanity saver and built by Canadian company Bombardier) and headed to J.W. Marriott Hotel. Last year, on my birthday, my father gave me the best birthday present possible (other than a Ferrari Testarossa) – gift certificates to any Marriott in the world. I decided to get the most bang for my buck by exchanging them for day coupons to use the JW Marriott’s fitness and spa centre. I intend to take photos of the place one of these days. I could spend an entire day just in the locker room. It has a whirlpool, a cold water plunge pool, a scented steam room, a scented sauna, bathrobes, slippers, scented lotions, soft towels, etc. In otherwords, it represents another universe to someone like myself who makes only 8 dollars a day. After pretending to exercise for an hour when all I was really doing was watching TV on the Sony flat screen TV that every piece of cardio equipment posses, I spent the next 90 minutes in the change room using every facility they had and every lotion, talcum powder, hair spray, and mouthwash available. To end my morning, I went to my favorite coffee shop and had a vegetarian sandwich on fresh foccacia bread and a western sized coffee (i.e., it was larger than a thumb thimble). And now I am sitting here writing this before I forget that days like this do exist. I shall have to end this entry here for I suspect the computer God is starting to stir – the keyboard is becoming decidedly moody.

From the Land of a Thousand Smiles, which today includes mine.

Sunday, August 15, 2004

The Exotic Sky

I am sitting here in my apartment watching the last rays of the sun paint the dusk clouds. Whenever I travel, it is the sky that makes me realize that I am far from home. My birthplace of Calgary, in the shadows of the Canadian Rockies, has in my opinion the biggest, bluest sky. Even when gazing at wildebeast Serengeti National Park in Tanzania from a 4-wheeldrive truck, the sky did not seem as big. I can clearly recall as a child sitting on the shores of the Red Sea in Egypt, way before it was discovered by developers and tourists alike, and gazing upon millions and millions of stars. In Uganda, I would sit on the banks of Lake Victoria at the start of theWhile Nile, and watch the sun disappear into the lake as the sky turned prematurely black from all the bats waking up and heading out to feast. Last Monday, herein Bangkok, I watched as the darkest storm clouds I've ever seen menacingly moved in obliterating all view ofthe surrounding buildings and dumped an ocean's worth of water on the area.

Next time you travel, take a moment to look up. What you see may be more exotic and interesting then what you were on the verge of photographing.

(Non)interesting fact: The Karen people, one of the many persecuted hilltribes in Southeast Asia, believe that if a pregnant woman steps across a snake, the snake will freeze. They also believe that if you sneeze on your way to doing something that you should postpone your errand since it is a sign that your soul is weak at that particular moment.

Now for a smile. Here are a few Bushisms."Our enemies are innovatie and resourceful, and so are we. They never stop thinking about new ways to harm our country and our people, and neither do we."Washington, D.C., Aug. 5, 2004.

"The senator has got to understand if he's going to have - he can't have it both ways. He can't take the high horse and then claim the low road."

"It will take time to restore chaos and order."

Thursday, August 12, 2004

Queen's B-day

Today is the Queen's birthday. Thailand has been hosting events in honor of the occasion since the beginning of the year. The reason is that Her Majesty the Queen is celebrating her 6th cycle. Each cycle is 12 years and the 6th cycle is particularly auspicious. (Non)interesting fact: Each member of the Royal Family has a color. The Queen's color is blue so far the past few weeks, Bangkok has been awash in blue. Two days before the Queen's birthday, workers put up huge blue banners on every cement column under the skytrain and strung up what I call fairy lights on the shrubs and bushes between the columns. It was really quite impressive to see at 5:30 am in the peacefulness of the morning. I hope to upload some pictures to my photoblog (shsarah.buzznet.com) at some point in the future. When that might be, I cannot say since the computer Gods have been waging an incredibly
successful campaig against me.

Friday, July 02, 2004

Still Here in BKK

Greetings from someone who is ashamed to admit that for the first time ever, she did not vote.

I hope all is well. I haven’t written since (your) spring. Spent most of April and the beginning of May in Canada on a much deserved break.

[snip]

I returned restored and rejuvenated to Bangkok to discover that about a
million ants, all carrying eggs, had decided to make the plant in my cubicle their new kingdom. (I never had these problems in Canada). Naturally, the first thing I did was run out and buy a highly toxic spray
(even an environmentalist has her limits). I think I sprayed enough to kill any ant within a 10 km radius. Problem-solved! My boss and colleagues, however, for some reason weren’t too impressed. When they
discovered what I was doing, before even welcoming me back, they immediately ran to open all the windows in the area. I had no idea my boss could move so fast! Yes, Sarah was definitely back.

These past two months have truly been a learning experience for me, a city slicker:
1) found out how milk is produced (something I could have lived without knowing), got to taste fresh icecream and even got to milk a cow. My aim was atrocious.
2) found out how eggs are produced (not as scary as the milk thing) and that some chickens are smarter than others. They are the ones that clue in much quicker that the eggs aren’t being fertilised and stop producing eggs.
3) found out that if you want to make money, forget the stock market, breed fighting cocks.
3) met with the president of a Canadian company that is building the first potash mine in Thailand and followed that up with a visit to the villagers fighting the project. The Thai government went so far
as to change the law so that the Canadian company could exploit the sub-surface minerals. Made me embarrassed to be a Canadian.
3) learned more about the elephant situation in Thailand. In the past, elephants were used for logging. Because logging is now banned in Thailand, the elephants and their mahouts are unable to make a living anymore. The mahouts end up taking their elephants to Burma where they continue to log. However, the owners are unable to provide enough food
for their elephants so they give them amphetamines to keep them working. On occasion, the elephants step on landmines and get a hoof blown off. A few of these elephants are transported back to the elephant conservation centre in Lampang, Thailand where they are treated.
4) Visited an AIDS clinic and had a doctor and pharmacist explain more about the virus and its treatment. Also met some HIV-infected volunteers.
5) Visited a self-sufficient community run by monks. The entire community is vegetarian, they do not use any money, everyone wears the same clothes, and they all walk around in bare feet. It was really an amazing
place to visit. Everyone we met seemed to have an inner glow to them and truly seemed to be happy and at peace, even the teenage boys we met shovelling compost.
6) and lastly, I discovered that my powers at crashing computers in Canada and in Africa are just as powerful here in Asia. The computer I was given lasted less then a month, before suffering a hard drive failure
last week. The replacement computer they gave me is unable to read its CD-Rom drive, making it impossible to upgrade the virus-scan software, and regularly makes it clear that it does not like me.

On a separate note, just finished an excellent book called E=MC2 – A Biography of the World’s Most Famous Equation. The book was unbelievable. The truth truly is more amazing than fiction.

[snip]
Have a great day!

Sarah

Wednesday, March 24, 2004

Tales from a+broad

Hi Guys,

Hope all is well. Things here are going ok. Nothing special. Every week still brings new ways for me to embarrass myself such as:

Two weeks ago, I showed up for work dressed fairly casually in a jeans-like dress. Next thing I know, my former boss, who recently got promoted, is calling me to attend a meeting on the second floor. I walk in and find out it is an exchange of information between the
Lake Victoria Environmental Management Program (LVEMP)steering committee and the Thai national Mekong River Committee (yes Mekong River as in Mekong delta as in Vietnam War). Boy was I surprised since I worked on
LVEMP when I was in Uganda and also visited Kenya and Tanzania as part of the project. The Africans who came from all three of the countries surrounding Lake Victoria sat on one side of the room while the Thais,
which included myself, sat on the other. Every person in that room was high-level – there was the permanent-secretary for the Ministry of Environment of Uganda, as was his counterpart in Tanzania and Kenya
(you get the idea). Not to be outdone, the Thais also sent their most senior people. And there, among all these big-wigs, sat I. I quietly listened to the presentations given by both parties. This was really
interesting given that I know the real situation in the Lake Victoria basin and the situation in the Mekong so I could tell how much of it was truth and how much of it was lies. My knowledge even surpassed many in that room since I had also worked in Egypt and was very familiar with issues pertaining to the Nile basin as a whole (Lake Victoria is the source of the White Nile). The Africans stuck to the truth, the Thais did pretty much as well (in an Enron kind of way) until it came to the questions. The Africans asked some incredibly sharp questions to which the Thais could not answer. I.e., how did you actually engage the public? Once it was the Thais turn to ask questions, the room got deathly silent. Now most sane people who find themselves a bottom-dweller in a room
filled with people at the top of the food chain would have kept quiet, unfortunately I do not fall into that category. I dared asked a pertinent question, which happened to throw the whole meeting slightly off track
for a moment. The Chair of the meeting did not get my point at all and was furious with me. (The Africans got it though). Now is the time for me to mention that the Chair turned out to be the person who has the 3rd
highest position within the federal Ministry of the Environment. He made it obvious to all the people there that he was supremely angry with me. In Thai society, this doesn’t occur very often since saving face is very important. Therefore, Thais will rarely criticize anyone so openly. Did I mention that my new boss was there and sitting right next to me? I
definitely made an impression on her, but not necessarily the one I wanted to make.

Now getting back to what I was wearing. Everyone else in the room was dressed extremely formally and there I was in my dumpy jeans-like dress. The dress was one of the few items of clothing that I had found in Thailand that fit me, actually it was even a little big on me. Recently,
someone in another department shed some light on why the dress was so big and the pockets seemed almost at the back – it was a maternity dress. Well, needless to say I haven’t been invited to any meetings since, but
hope is in the air. Last week the Prime Minister was kind enough to shuffle the Cabinet so we got a new Environmental Minister and, I am assuming, new deputy permanent secretary as well. I have already had a
close call though. One day after the appointment, I happen to come round the corner at work, and almost banged right into the new Minister who was posing for the TV cameras. I walked away as quickly as I could and went to stand waiting for the elevator.

Unfortunately, the Minister who normally always has an entourage surrounding him came and waited about a metre away from me for another elevator. So there I was, sweat dripping from my brow, clothes already all rumpled, face half covered by a mask, and a huge pack on my back. Now Thai society is all about protocol and at that moment I was in a panic asking myself what am I supposed to do? what am I supposed to do? do I raise my coffee mug in a gesture of greeting ? do I wai ? help! At this point, inspiration struck and I went and hid behind a Thai lady who for once was larger than me. Finally, after what seemed an eternity but was
really probably only 5 seconds, both the Minister’s entourage and the elevator arrived.

Now, you’re probably wondering what my work involves (I wonder that a lot too). Oftentimes, it involves attending a planning meeting where we discuss how polluted the river is and what steps need to be taken
to clean it up, and then I attend another planning meeting where we discuss how polluted the river is and what steps need to be taken, and then I attend another planning meeting… You get the picture. Well, not long ago, there appeared to be what I considered a possible departure from the status quo. I was invited to a meeting (on a Saturday), where experts from the United States and the Philippines would be talking. My
colleague and I showed up in the morning and were directed to a floating restaurant where the rest of the attendees and speakers were sitting. I was looking forward to it because the Americans and the Filippino where top experts in the field of watershed management. Once everyone had arrived, I discovered to my horror that we would not be staying tied to the shore. A tug boat pulled up in front of the restaurant, and began pulling us away from the dock – the only avenue of escape! This shows how cunning government officials can be. They knew that everyone had been to all those other meetings and knew how dirty the water was so of course now one would dare jump overboard. To be fair though, the speeches by the
Americans met my expectations and they all stayed within their time limits. All the experts were done by lunch. I was absolutely thrilled that it wouldn’t be a long day after all when the Thais got up to talk and talk and talk. After six and a half hours of speech after speech after speech, pollution or no pollution, I was ready to jump over board. Luckily, it never came to that. The never ending drag (by tugboat) came to an end. But not before the Chair of the meeting asked me to stand up and summarize the morning’s presentations in Thai (the official translator for the Americans ignored my pleas for help). I still can’t speak Thai at all much less translate English presentations so I
stood up and said the only thing I could: “Chesapeake Bay, USA; Lake Laguna, Philippines; and the ThaChin River, Thailand all share the same problem – dirty water.”

So now that you have all heard about how volunteering abroad can be a great booster for your self-esteem, I am sure you’re all dying to sign up with a development agency.

From a woman whose pride got lost by Air Canada on the way over and has yet to be located.

Thursday, January 22, 2004

God Exists!

[snip]

Incidentally, I was going to email you anyway to let
you know I now have proof that God exists. Last
Wednesday, I was feeling particularly lonely and that
evening I asked God to show mercy and send me a
companion (of the male kind). Wouldn't you know, he
deliver within a few hours! The very next morning I
was awoken at 4:30 by a sound coming from outside my
closet. I looked over and what did I see, one of the
biggest cockroaches of my life! Next time, I'll have
to be more specific about the kind of companion I
want.

Take care,

Sarah

Tuesday, December 23, 2003

Canals in Bangkok

Hi J,

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

I went back and checked the information I gave you.
Here is some information about the canals that was
published in one of the Ministry of Environment's
publications:

Thailand was once called the Venice of the East by the
French who visited Ayudhaya 300 years ago.

Gong De Lukovik Bouvior: “The beauty of this
picturesque Eastern Venice is beyond a traveler’s
dream”.

A communities prosperity was once measured by the
nature of homes along its river and canal sides.

Canals are classified into 4 types: general,
irrigation, water supply, and historic.

BKK once had more than 1,200 canals. Only 200 remain.

Take care,

Sarah